Erin top - free pattern!

Here is a Tunisian crochet top I worked out recently.  It couldn't be more simple!  It's just two large rectangles, seamed together on the sides and at the top.

Experience Level:
Beginner +

Measurements:
Finished chest measurements approximately 31” (35”, 39”, 43”, 47”, 51”)
Sizes XS (S, M, L, XL, XXL)

Materials: 
4 (4, 4, 5, 5, 6) balls Plymouth Encore DK, 75% Acrylic, 25% Wool, 50g (1.75 oz)/137m (150 yds), color Christmas Green
5.00mm H Tunisian hook, or hook required to obtain gauge

Gauge: 15 stitches X 16 rows = 4”, in Tunisian reverse stitch.  

Terms:
Ch - chain
ExTks - extended Tunisian knit stitch.  Insert hook knitwise (from front to back, through fabric), pull up loop, ch 1
ExTrs - extended Tunisian reverse stitch.  Insert hook from right to left, through back of stitch, pull up loop, ch 1
Trs - Tunisian reverse stitch
Sl st - slip stitch

Notes:

• This pattern is written to be worked flat and then seamed.
• Pattern is written for size XS, with all other sizes noted in ( ).
• All return rows are completed as normal (ch 1, y/o and pull through two loops for remainder of row).
• Note that the loop on the hook at the beginning of each row is always the first stitch, and that the last stitch of each row is always tks (or an extended stitch).

Pattern:
Make 2
Ch 56 (65, 71, 79, 86, 94)
Row 1:  Pull up loop in each stitch across.
Rows 2 - 4:  Trs each stitch across. 
Row 5:  Ch 1, ExTrs in each stitch across.
Rows 6 - 8:  Ch 1, ExTks in each stitch across.
Repeat Rows 2 - 8:  7 (7, 8, 8, 9, 9) more times.
Repeat Rows 2 - 4: one more time (all sizes).

Loosely bind off using sl st (as if making a Trs).

Blocking:
Block each rectangle to the following dimensions
XS - 15.5” wide X 21” long
S - 17.5” wide X 21” long
M - 19.5” wide X 22” long
L - 21.5” wide X 22” long
XL - 23.5” wide X 23” long
XL - 25.5” wide X 23” long


Finishing:
With right sides together, seam 11” (11”, 11.5”, 11.5”, 12”, 12”) from bottom hem, up the sides.  Leave remaining fabric unseamed for armhole.
With right sides together, seam 4” (4”, 4.25”, 4.25”. 4.5”, 4.5”) from the top of each rectangle, forming the shoulders.

Turn right side out, and enjoy this simple mesh top, suitable for so many summer occasions!

Plaidigan Cardigan

Keeping with my previous resolution, I am sharing my latest pattern with you.  A child's cardigan done all in Tunisian crochet.  I used a tapestry needle and scrap yarns to embellish the sweater with a plaid design.  Plaid cardigan..Plaidigan...get it?  LOL  Sizes available range from 2T all the way up to size 10, and this sweater can easily be made for a boy or a girl, just change up the colors.  I used a heavy worsted weight yarn and a K hook, with a cable attachment.  Hope you love it as much as I do!

Tunisian knit headband

I know you've all seen 'em.  Cute little teenagers running around with knitted headband/earwarmers on.  Oh to be young and cute again.  But I digress.  My neighbor asked if I could make one of them for her, and having neglected my knitting needles for awhile, I decided to take up the challenge.

Ahem, now I remember why I don't knit much.  It's soooooooo sloooooooowwww.  I got about 4 hours and 4" into it and chucked my needles into the fireplace.  Turned to my trusty Tunisian hooks and within 2 hours, I had a cute headband and a fun little flower on a pin.  So cute, in fact, that I had to make another one for myself.  This one adorned with buttons.

And, because I learned to share in Kindergarten, I decided to write down the formula for all to enjoy.  I say formula because you really can use any hook/yarn combination, as far as I can tell.  Since I have not tried it in all possible hook/yarn combinations, I am going to leave it up to the user to find out the hard way if it works or not.  Lucky you...

NOTES:

1. All return rows are as normal, except the buttonhole row.  
2. For the buttonhole, skip the stitch where the buttonhole will be.  On the return row, ch 1 over the skipped stitch, and continue the return row as normal.
3. The buttonhole size and corresponding button will be determined by the yarn/hook being used.  If you wish to have a larger button but are using thinner yarn, I would recommend starting with Ch 7.
4. M1 (make 1) directions - insert hook knitwise through fabric in the space *between* the stitches.  Pull up loop.  Increase made.
5. Tks - Tunisian knit stitch (but I am guessing you already knew that)

Pattern/Formula

Ch 5
Row 1: pick up each loop across
Row 2 - 5: tks across row
Row 6:  find center stitch.  Tks across to center stitch, M1, tks center stitch, M1, tks across remaining stitches.
Rows 7 - 9: tks across row
Repeat Rows 6 - 9 until piece measures 3.5" in width.  Place marker on last increase row.  Measure the length from beginning to this marker (Measurement A).

Total length of the headband should be no more than about 18".  I know your head is bigger than that, but believe me, the yarn will stretch.  Double your measurement and subtract it from 18".  This number (Measurement B) will be the main length of the headband.  Continue in tks across each row until you reach Measurement B.  Now begin your decreases...

Row 1:  find center stitch.  Tks across to one stitch before the center stitch.  Skip next stitch, tks center stitch, skip next stitch, tks across remaining stitches.
Row 2 - 4: tks across row
Repeat Rows 1 - 4 until only 5 (or more, depending on your initial chain) stitches remain.
Complete on more row of tks.
Buttonhole row:  find center stitch.  Tks across to center stitch, skip stitch, tks remaining stitches.  On the return row, ch 1 for skipped stitch.
Complete 2 more rows in tks, bind off in your preferred method.  Fasten off, unless doing Trim.

Trim (optional)
Ch 1, turn to work the lengthwise side of the headband. *Sl st, ch 1.  Repeat for every stitch around the headband, making a ch 2 at the corners.  Join with a sl st at the bind off row.  Fasten off.  Sew on a button, and any other decorations you want.

So, for the tan headband I made, my length up to the marker was 5".  The main body was 8" and the decrease section was 5".  This makes a total of 18".  I used worsted weight and a J hook.

Three Button Wrap

A little over a year ago, a friend asked me to make a wrap that she saw in some expensive store.  It was knitted, of course, and back then I didn't knit yet.  So I made one in Tunisian crochet and I *wish* I would have written down the instructions at the time.  Anyway, fast forward one year and sure enough, she asked for another one!  This time, I've got the pattern to share.  Not so much a pattern as it is a formula.  This can be worked in any stitch pattern, crochet, knit, Tunisian crochet, you name it.

 This wrap is basically a wide, long rectangle, with approximate dimensions of 18" X 72".  Mentally break up the wrap into 3 equal sections.  In the last third of the wrap, evenly place button holes, approximately 6" apart.  You can add or take away space depending on your preferences and choice of buttons.  Use any yarn, any hook, and/or any needles.

Start with a foundation single crochet (or chain) equaling your desired length.  In the example shown it is 18".  Continue in desired stitch pattern for 54", place button hole, continue 6" and place another button hole, continue 6", place last button hole, and finish off wrap with a final 6" of pattern stitches.  I placed my button holes approximately 2" from the edge of the fabric.









 


Here is a very basic diagram showing the dimensions.  Forgive my pathetic Paint skills.  LOL!  The blue dots represent the button holes.  Can't wait to see what you make with it!

Bamboo stitch beanie

A few weeks ago I started experimenting with the knitted bamboo stitch.  I really liked the look and decided I wanted to translate its beauty into Tunisian crochet.  Once I got it down, I made a hat in the round using the stitch and two complimentary colors.  I really, really like it!  So, I want to share it with you!

Bamboo Stitch Beanie

Materials:
Patons Silk Bamboo (DK weight, 70% Bamboo
30% Silk, 102 yds/2.3 oz per skein) – 1 skein Sea (MC), 1 skein Sapphire (CC)
US J (6.00mm) double-ended hook
Tapestry needle

Gauge: not especially important, and will be determined by yarn and hook choice.

Abbreviations:
tfs = Tunisian full stitch (insert hook in space between vertical bars and draw up loop)
y/o = yarn over (increase made)
sl st = slip stitch
ch = chain

Special Stitch:
Bamboo stitch = y/o, tfs in each of next 2 spaces, pull last two loops on hook back through y/o, at the same time.  For a video tutorial on Bamboo stitch, click here.

Notes:

• Any yarn/hook combination can be used with this pattern.
• All return rows are as normal: ch 1 for first stitch, y/o and pull through 2 loops for all subsequent stitches
• All stitches are created knitwise, meaning the hook is inserted from front to back, through the fabric.
• This pattern can be made in 2 colors, as shown, or using one color throughout.
• Pictured hat is made extra long for slouchy look, but can also be worn with a fold-up brim. Note that the bamboo stitch is not very stretchy. It is recommended that a test swatch be done in desired yarn.

Pattern:

Ch 75 (or any odd number of stitches, enough to loosely fit around your head). Join with a sl st to first ch. Do not twist chain.
Row 1: Pull up loop in the back hump of each ch around.
Row 2: Work bamboo stitch pattern

Repeat Row 2 until desired length is reached. Hat pictured is 9” tall.

Finishing:

Pull the last CC stitch through final forward pass stitch. Cut both yarns, leaving about a 10” tail of CC. Thread CC through tapestry needle, weave in and out of the topmost stitches, pull tight to gather the top of the hat, and secure the yarn. Weave in ends.

Special thanks to Chaitanya Muralidhara for her technical editing expertise!

Seaming Tunisian knit stitch and a free pattern!

I've been a bit obsessed lately with ways to seam Tunisian crochet, without the obvious seam! What about pieces that need to be seamed and can't be worked in the round? Or, how about those who are just getting into Tunisian crochet and don't have double-ended hooks yet? Or, how about those kick-ass yarns that can't really show off their stripes when worked in the round? Or, how about crocheters who just don't have a long enough cable to attempt the "circular" version of Tunisian? Or large pieces seamed together Aran style?

Let's face it. Some things are just going to need seaming. So, as I continue to obsess over this for other stitches, let me just share my seaming solution for pieces worked in Tunisian knit stitch. It's called the mattress stitch, and it's used in knitting. I've heard vague mention of it being used for this, but I was surprised to find my Google searches of Tunisian crochet + mattress stitch came up totally empty! And only the briefest of mention on Ravelry (oh, the shock!).

Before I learned to knit on circular needles, I knitted flat pieces that would have to be seamed together (i.e. into a hat). Since Tunisian knit looks so much like stockinette, I thought I would give it a try. Et voila! It works! Of course, how I do it is just a version of the mattress stitch, but it's adapted to Tunisian knit and I must say, the seam is almost invisible. Not perfect, but pretty damn good! Another surprise was that the inside of the seam was absolutely smooth, so you could even use this technique to make chemo hats!

Anyway, here is a basic knit stitch hat pattern, and two videos on mattress stitch seaming - one for pieces made in one color, and the other for pieces with color changes every other row. Enjoy!

Basic Tks Hat

Materials:
less than 100 yds each of 2 colors sportweight
J hook with cable attached
tapestry needle

Notes:
Although I used 2 colors, the possibilities are endless. Also, you can use any yarn you want. Just note that your decreases will be different than the ones mentioned in this pattern. If you aren't sure how to decrease, just send me a comment and I will help you out!

Terms:
tks = Tunisian knit stitch

Pattern:
With color A, ch 75
Row 1: with one loop on hook, pick up each st across. Return row as normal (and for all rows until the decreases). Before pulling hook through last stitch, drop color A, yarn over and complete stitch with color B.
Row 2: with one loop on hook, tks across the row. Change color on last stitch of return row.
Rows 3 and on: continue knitting across, changing color each row, until piece reaches desired length. I stopped when my piece reached about 8" tall as I wanted a slouchy hat.

Decrease Row 1: tks each st across. On the return row, y/o and pull through one loop, y/o and pull through 2 two times, y/o and pull through 3, *y/o and pull through 2 three times, y/o and pull through 3.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.

Row 1a: tks across with other color, sliding hook through both stitches that were decreased in the previous return row. This will ensure that they remain decreased stitches.

Decrease Row 2: tks each st across. On the return row, y/o and pull through one loop, y/o and pull through 2, y/o and pull through 3, *y/o and pull through 2 two times, y/o and pull through 3.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.

Row 2a: tks across with other color, sliding hook through both stitches that were decreased in the previous return row. This will ensure that they remain decreased stitches.

Decrease Row 3: tks each st across. On the return row, y/o and pull through one loop, y/o and pull through 3, *y/o and pull through 2, y/o and pull through 3.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.

Row 3a: tks across with other color, sliding hook through both stitches that were decreased in the previous return row. This will ensure that they remain decreased stitches.

Decrease Row 4: tks each st across. On the return row, *y/o and pull through 3.* Repeat from * to * to end of row.

Row 4a: tks across with other color, sliding hook through both stitches that were decreased in the previous return row. This will ensure that they remain decreased stitches. Do not change color on the last stitch. At this point, you should have 15 stitches. Cut yarn, leaving a very long tail of the color you just used.

Finishing:
Thread the yarn through your tapestry needle. Insert needle on the left side of your work, through the last row just made. Slide needle through each stitch and pull snug. The top of your hat should be gathered now.

Turn work with right sides together and use the mattress stitch to seam together. After seaming, if you don't care for the curl created by the knit stitch, either block it into submission, or add a brim of some sort. Totally up to you!

By the way, I wrote this up on the fly and haven't really proofread it. If you find mistakes, my apologies! Let me know and I will fix it right away. :)

A Funny Thing Happened...

**Errata added 7/9** - Trim should read *Dc next st, ch 7, sc in 5^th ch from hook, ch 2, sk 3 st, dc next st.*

The other day, a nice gal named Les sent up a challenge on Ravelry to recreate Doris Chan's famous All Shawl in Tunisian crochet. Well, I love Doris, I love shawls, and I think everyone knows I love Tunisian! So, that challenge was right up my alley.

I knew I needed something semi-circular, and something with a fairly tall, open stitch. After all, these are the traits carried by the All Shawl. So, following the basic formula for a perfect (half) circle, I set off using the Tunisian double crochet, also called Tunisian double stitch but...

A Funny Thing Happened...

Take a look at this picture of the shawl, before blocking. There is a definite sway to the right. Convinced I had screwed up somehow, somewhere, I started designing a new shawl, also semi-circular, but with a more complicated stitch pattern. Sure enough, the sway was there too! I am not sure why it's there; it doesn't really show up as much when working other shapes. But, I am convinced that blocking cures all evils, and it didn't fail me on this adventure either. Anyway, hope you enjoy this pattern!

Materials:
GypsyKnits BFL Superwash Wool Fingering weight, appx 385 yds
J Tunisian (afghan) hook
Tapestry needle

Gauge: not especially important.

Abbreviations:

tds = Tunisian double stitch (y/o, insert hk, draw up lp, y/o, draw through 2 lps)
y/o = yarn over (increase made)
lp = loop
hk = hook
sp = space
st = stitch
ch = chain

Notes:

•Ch 1 at the beginning of each row, counts as a tds.
•All return rows are as normal: y/o, pull through 1 loop, then y/o and pull through 2 loops for remainder of row.
•Yarn-overs, and the spaces created by them, count as stitches and should be worked accordingly.
•All stitches are created knitwise, meaning the hook is inserted from front to back, through the fabric.
•The fabric will not appear to be perfectly semi-circular. However, a good blocking will remedy the situation regardless of the fiber content used.

Pattern:

**Read Notes first!**
Ch 10
Row 1: With 1 lp on hk, *y/o, pull up next loop*. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 2: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 3: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in next st and y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next 2 st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Row 4: With 1 lp on hk, tdc in next 2 st and y/o sp, *y/o, tdc in next 3 st and y/o sp *. Repeat from * to * to end of row.
Rows 5 – to desired size: continue increasing each section by tdc in each tdc, as well as each y/o sp.

Trim/Bind Off Row:

Ch 10, sc in 5th ch from hook (counts as dc, ch 2), ch 2, sk 3 st, dc next st. *Dc next st, ch 7, sc in 5th ch from hook, sk 3 st, dc next st.* Repeat from * to * to end of row. In the event that you are short or over 1 extra st, just sk 2 st for last trim section, or sk 2 for the last 2 sections, to even it out.

Finishing:

Block the shawl, regardless of the material used, to beat the sway into submission. Check out the pics here on the blocking board, and after. Blocking matters!

Tunisian twisted knit stitch

Oh, and just for fun, and because it's a stitch I am working on in one of my new designs, here is a video tutorial on the Tunisian Twisted Knit Stitch (ttks)...

Left side increases in Tunisian crochet

So, I know I've been away for awhile, but it's been for good reason. Very good reason, actually. Awhile ago I was bitten by the design bug and since then it's been unstoppable. Obsessive really; it wakes me at night. I've been designing up a storm and have now submitted 4 designs to magazines with another 3 in the works at the moment. Now I know that none of them may ever actually get published, but I've got a pretty good feeling about them. And hey, I am getting out there. I am doing what I love. All the best designers started somewhere, right?

Anyway, during a design I was working on I came across a problem where I needed to increase the number of stitches but only on the left side. I am working in Tunisian crochet which presents some challenges. The right side increase is simple: chain the number of stitches you need, pick up the loops and keep on truckin'. Middle of the row increases are simple too - just place extra stitches between the posts (or something similar) in the appropriate places until the needed stitches are obtained. The left side is a horse of a different color. A fellow Raveler pointed me to a video from KnitDenise showing a left side increase using the Simple Cast On method, aka backwards E loop. A posting on Vashti Braha's blog noted the same technique. I tried it and was not pleased with my results. The bottom of the loops were too flimsy and loose for me, and didn't provide a clean edge. Of course, I have the same problem knitting into a Simple Cast On as well, so I should have guessed that crocheting into it would be no different for me. I needed the clean edge because I will be crocheting a trim onto it.

What's my solution then? Crochet Cast On! I used another hook to do a Crochet Cast On for one less than the number of extra stitches I needed. I took the last loop still on the extra hook and set it on my afghan hook. Voila! I had all the new stitches I needed, with a nice clean edge to come back and crochet over. I was so pleased I just needed to share!

Hope you find this helpful!

One skein Tunisian scarf

So, if you are anything like me, you lurve the feel of Homespun yarn but hate actually crocheting with it. Maybe it's just me, but I have the hardest time seeing my stitches using this yarn, and I am constantly splitting it with the hook. So beautiful, so soft, so evil.

Anyway, for me, Tunisian crochet is the answer! Using this technique allows me to use this lovely yarn for good and not firepit kindling. And, like most fiber addicts, I bet you have a skein (or 8) of this torturous yarn laying about, without purpose, without future prospects. And, like most, you hate the notion of tossing out perfectly good yarn. Well, let me solve that for ya! This scarf pattern doesn't curl, has really nice drape and is very warm and soft. And on top of all that, it's washable! Yay!

One Skein Tunisian Scarf

Materials:
Bulky weight yarn - yep, you guessed it, one skein Homespun
9 mm afghan hook

Time needed: about 3 hours, more or less, depending on the number of children you have running about screaming that they want juice, are fighting with their siblings, just dropped a paint can on the floor...oh, I digress...

Notes: all return rows are done as normal - y/o, pull through one for the first stitch, y/o pull through two for the remaining stitches in the row.

Stitches used:
Tss - Tunisian simple stitch Slide hook from right to left under the post of the stitch and draw up a loop.
Tdc - Tunisian double crochet. Y/o, slide hook from right to left under the post of the stitch, draw up a loop, y/o and pull through 2.
Sc - single crochet. Um, I bet you know this one already. :)

Directions:
Ch 15
Row 1: with one loop on, tss across the chain, return row
Row 2: ch 2 (counts as first tdc), tdc across the row, return row
Row 3 - : repeat Rows 1 and 2, until you reach the desired length, or until you reach the end of the skein.
Bind off using sc.

There, couldn't be simpler. :)

Ribbed Brim Tunisian Hat

Front and top views of two colorways of my latest creation...

I can't stop myself with this Tunisian thing...I just love it. I only have a few days before Moving Day, but who cares? I am lovin' my crochet. Anyway, here is another hat pattern. Reminder: I am no pro at writing patterns, so don't shoot me if there's something wrong! LOL!

OK - here goes...

Materials: two colors ww yarn, double-ended J (6.00mm) hook, tapestry needle

Chain 60 (small hat), 66 (medium hat) or 72 (large hat)

Pick up stitches around with primary color as in Tss. Keep turning hook back and forth as Tunisian in the round.

Turn hook and bind off as normal with secondary color.

Continue around for about 14 rows. Then, with all decreases happening on the forward pass, tss next 4 stitches, tss2tog next two stitches. See pic.

Continue for one round. Next round, tss next 3 stitches, tss2tog next two stitches. If it works out correctly, you should be tss2tog the stitch before and the decrease stitch from the previous round. See the picture since I am sure that made no sense whatsoever. The silver hook is pointing to the example. Sorry I used dark colors. LOL

Continue in the decrease pattern until only one or 2 stitches remain. Fasten off by pulling both colors through the last loop on hook. At this point, a small bit of the hat may be sticking up a little funny from the top. No biggie. Just tuck the loose ends back through the hat and weave in the ends nicely.

Now, join either color yarn to the original chain with a sl st. At this point, you can switch to a regular J hook, if you want. Chain 3 (counts as bpdc from here out), and dc in each ch around. 66 dc. Sl st to beginning ch 3.

Ch 3, fpdc next stitch, bpdc next stitch, and so on. You are creating the ribbing. Continue this around, sl st to first ch 3. Continue for 2 or three more rounds (depending on how long you want the hat) and then finish off.

Weave in ends neatly BECAUSE...this hat is also reversible! Tunisian "wrong side" is just as interesting as "right side" in my opinion. Just check out the reverse of these!




Well, I hope you enjoy this pattern! Please don't sell this pattern! Have fun!

More Tunisian projects and a free pattern!

Well, my obsession with Tunisian crochet continues, despite the fact that I am still supposed to be packing. LOL

Anyway, just wanted to share my recent creations. This honeycomb hat was made Tunisian in the round, and I really like how it turned out. I created the pattern myself! I also made a junior version which my daughter, begrudgingly, modeled for me. Look at the bottom of this post for the pattern.





I also made these two bags. The blue one is that same honeycomb pattern, but the red one is all knit stitch in the round. You can't see it, but there is purple behind the red. I used the new Country Loom by Loops N Threads from Michaels. I absolutely LOVE it! I will be using it again, for sure.




Honeycomb Hat

Materials needed:

Double-ended crochet hook, size 6.5mm
Worsted weight yarn, two colors (MC - main color, CC - contrast color)
Tapestry needle

Stitch explanation:
Tss - tunisian simple stitch. I think this is also called a basic stitch.
Tps - tunisian purl stitch. This is also called a reverse stitch.
Tunisian crochet in the round. This video takes a while to get the point, but it's worth viewing.

Now, on to the pattern...
With MC, chain 61, being careful not to twist the chain, sl st the chain together to form a ring (ETA - I just tried a hat starting with ch 61 using a thinner ww yarn and it was a bit too tight. Depending on the yarn, you may want to go with ch 66 or 71.)
Pull up loops as basic forward pass, all around the ring, with CC chasing (or binding off) behind.

Once foundation row is done, tss in the next stitch and tps next stitch. Continue in this manner with CC chasing until the hat reaches about 5 - 5.25" long. If all is well, you should be tss in a tps stitch from the round previous, and tps in a tss stitch.

Now comes the decrease part, and here is where a stitch marker may come in handy. *Tss next stitch, tps next stitch, tss next stitch, tps next stitch, then tss next 2 stitches together. Tps next stitch, tss next stitch, tps next stitch, tss next stitch, then tps next 2 stitches together* *Repeat to end of round.

Next decrease round: *Tss next stitch, tps next stitch, tss next stitch, tps next 2 stitches together.* *Repeat to end of round. Now, in case you missed a stitch, or had too many stitches, don't worry! Just start off this round with tps and keep on going. Honestly, no one will know. LOL!

Next decrease round: *Tss next stitch, tps next stitch, tss next 2 stitches together. Tps next stitch, tss next stitch, tps next 2 stitches together.* *Repeat to end of round.

Next decrease round: *Tss next stitch, tps next 2 stitches together.* *Repeat to end of round.

Next decrease round: *Tss next 2 stitches together. Tps next 2 stitches together* *Repeat until there is just one stitch left (or two, depending on how the rest of the pattern went for ya!). Fasten off the yarn by pulling both colors through the MC loop on hook. Pull the ends back down through the hat (so they are on the inside) and use your tapestry needle to clean it up. Also, clean up the ends from the beginning of the hat.

Voila! You are done! And best of all, the hat is reversible. The back side of Tunisian work is just as visually interesting as the front.

A little disclaimer (if you even made it this far) - I have just learned Tunisian, and actually never read or wrote a Tunisian pattern. I cannot guarantee that this pattern will be free of errors. But, give it a try and tell me what you think. I think it will make a great gift and I think you will be able to sell these at your local fairs, etc.!

Oh, and for the junior version, chain 53, and follow the rest of the gist of the pattern. :)

My first foray into Tunisian crochet

Ah, such a long absence. This year has been crazy with illness. And, now we are moving! We bought our first house. Yay for us! However, it's about 45 miles away, so house hunting has taken up all my spare time. Boo! I haven't been crocheting much lately untillllll the last two days. All of a sudden, I was inspired to learn Tunisian crochet. Don't know why. Maybe I just needed to try something new? It's best to keep expanding your knowledge and push yourself. Anyway, I made this hat all by myself! No pattern or anything. There are mistakes and definitely things I will fix next time around, but not too bad for a first attempt. I am really excited about Tunisian right now, and I also ordered some Crochet on the Double hooks. Can't wait to try that too! But it will all have to wait, because for now, I really must start packing! My close of escrow date is less than 30 days!

Anyway, here's my hat. Hope you like it! Basically, it's 8 pieces, from bottom up, starting with 12 stitches (but should have started with 10), 15 rows, decreasing by 2 every other row from there, ending with 4 stitches at the top (should have ended with 2 or 1). Single crochet the pieces together on the outside (think it looks neat that way) and around the bottom. Single crochet around the top sc2tog for each two stitches until there are none left. Not the most scientific approach, but it was all I had time for, and it's my first attempt. :)

Here's my hat...

And here's a close up of the stitches. These are called Tunisian simple stitches...