Saturday, January 30, 2010

I invented a new stitch!

I kid you not... Can you believe it? Me? Stitch inventor? Sorta baffles and excites me. It all happened when I screwed up on another pattern and found myself thinking (scary scenario for anyone who knows me) that I could turn this mistake into an actual stitch! So I played around with it, and voila! A stitch is born. I guess I am gonna call it the "trailer" because it's a double wide stitch. Bah-dum-bum. :) Seriously though, it is almost two stitches in one stitch, causing there to be a double thickness of yarn. Probably works out to take double the yarn and double the time, but oh! - the texture of the finished product is awesome! It's thick and you can barely see any holes in your work. Would make for a kick-ass baby blanket, I'm sure!

Here are the instructions:

Trailer single crochet (tsc): insert hook in front loop, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through one loop, insert hook in back loop of same stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and draw through remaining two loops.

Trailer half-double crochet (thdc): yarn over and insert hook in front loop, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and insert hook in back loop of same stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through all four loops.

Trailer double crochet (tdc): yarn over and insert hook in front loop, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through two loops, yarn over and insert hook in back loop of same stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn over and draw through three loops, yarn over and draw through remaining two loops.

These stitches will be taller and wider than regular stitches, so you may have to alter patterns to make these work. Here is a swatch to show the difference in the puffiness. You can see the fuschia-colored hat very well through the rows of regular double crochet. But see the texture and thickness of the trailer stitches? There is almost no color showing through. If you could feel it, you would love it. It almost has a spongy texture. Make sure you click on the image to get a close up. Comments and feedback would be awesome! Even if you don't like it. ;)


Thursday, January 28, 2010

more pics of some recent bags







This one was made like the one in my free pattern...





So was this one, with the cream flower...

























Free bag pattern! Stash buster bag!

I guess this blog is turning into a free pattern blog. LOL! Anyway, I've got another one to share with you...this time, a bag! It's more of a tutorial than a pattern, but whatever. I had a couple skeins of Impeccable yarn from the craft store, and to be honest, I didn't really want to use 'em for anything...um...wearable. Too scratchy! HOWEVER, they made for AWESOME bag yarn! I think I may buy more of it in fun colors to make other bags. This bag worked up really quickly, but did require some sewing...there...now you've been warned. :)

Stash Buster Bag








Materials needed:


2 skeins of any ww yarn (use up stash of cheap yarn, in same, coordinating, or contrasting colors)
N hook
handles
fat quarter or other scrap fabric to line with
usual sewing supplies
*glue gun
*pin backing


*required for flower, but flower is optional



Pattern (hold 2 strands together):


Chain any odd number of chains

Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hook, dc in next st, *sc in next, dc in next*. Repeat from * to end. You should end with a dc.


Row 2: Ch 1, sc in first st, dc in next st, *sc in next, dc in next*. Repeat from * to end. You should end with a dc.

Repeat Row 2 until you've reached your desired length.


Fold the piece together and sc or sl st the sides together. Attach handles using sc method or whipstitch. Line the bag however you like. Sorry...no pro at this. :) For the flower, I used the one from the Lion Brand Blooming Bag pattern. I really like it. Just glue a pin backing on the flower and pin on the bag.


In another post, I will show some pics of other bags I made with this stitch pattern. I am sure it has a name, but I don't know what it is. It creates a cool texture and because you use two strands together and a big hook, it moves so quickly! Plus, it's a good way to get rid of some of that crap yarn you KNOW you've got sitting in your bin somewhere....

Thursday, January 21, 2010

Lazy Cable Hat - Free pattern!!


The hat in all it's beauty... Close up of the cable sequence...
My goodness, the patterns are coming fast and furious now! LOL Anyway, here's another hat I've put together. I love the look of cables but I am bit lazy...so, I came up with a lazy person's version of cabling. I hope you like it. I added a little video tutorial (I think I am going to be addicted to those things!) to help explain the cable sequence. Enjoy!

Lazy Cable Hat

NOTES: K hook, ww yarn, join each round

Round 1: Ch 3, 9 dc into 3rd ch from hook (10 dc)

Round 2: Ch 3 (doesn’t count as a stitch). 2 fpdc around each dc from Round 1 all the way to end of round (20 fpdc)

Round 3: Ch 3 (doesn’t count as a stitch). *2 fpdc around each of the next 4 fpdc from Round 2, 1 fpdc around next fpdc from Round 2* Repeat from * to end of round. (36 fpdc)

Round 4: Ch 3 (counts as a dc from here to end of pattern), dc in same st. Fpdc next 2 st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around same st and around next 3 st. *2 dc in next st, fpdc next 2 st, 2 dc in next st, fpdc around same st and in around next 3 st.* Repeat from * to end of round. (36 fpdc, 24 dc)
NOTE: at this point your hat will be really floppy. Don’t worry! It will work itself out shortly.

Round 5 (beginning of cable sequence): Ch 3, bpdc around dc from Round 4, fpdc around 2nd fpdc from hook, fpdc around skipped fpdc, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc around next 4 st, *bpdc next 2 st, fpdc around 2nd fpdc from hook, fpdc around skipped fpdc, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc around next 4 st* Repeat from * to end of round. (36 fpdc, 24 bpdc)

Round 6: Ch 3, bpdc next st, fpdc next st (this will be buried under another fpdc – use your hook or pull your work slightly apart to find it), fpdc next st, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next 4 st, *bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next st (this will be buried under another fpdc – use your hook or pull your work slightly apart to find it), fpdc next st, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next 4 st* Repeat from * to end of round (36 fpdc, 24 bpdc)

Round 7 (end of cable sequence): Ch 3, bpdc around next st, fpdc next 2 st, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next 4 st *bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next 2 st, bpdc next 2 st, fpdc next 4 st*. Repeat from * to end of round. (36 fpdc, 24 bpdc)

Repeat Rounds 5 – 7 4 more times.

Brim Round 1: Ch 3, dc in next st and ea st around. (60 dc)

Brim Round 2: Ch 3 (counts as bpdc), *fpdc around next dc, bpdc around next dc* Repeat from * to end of round. (30 fpdc, 30 bpdc)

Brim Round 3: Ch 3 (counts as bpdc), *fpdc around ea fpdc, bpdc around ea bpdc* Repeat from * to end of round. (30 fpdc, 30 bpdc)

Brim Round 4 – 5: repeat Round 3. If the hat needs to be a bit longer, just repeat this round until desired length is reached.

Don't be daunted by the looks of this pattern. Trust me; if I can do this pattern, and even write it, YOU can do it. :)


video

Saturday, January 16, 2010

Seamless, beaded cancer cap




Well, it's about time for another free pattern...dontcha think?! I've been on a beading kick lately, as well as pumping out a ton of caps for my fave cancer charity, Knots of Love. Anyway, beads typically fall to the back of crochet work, so I tried for HOURS to figure out a way to keep my beads to the front. Mission accomplished! So, with no further ado...enjoy! And please make some caps for those in need!



Seamless, beaded charity cap
NOTES: WW yarn, I hook, place stitch marker at beginning of each round, pre-string desired number of beads

PATTERN:
Round 1: Ch 3 (counts as dc), 11 dc into 3rd ch from hk (12 dc)
Round 2: 2dc in first dc of previous round, 2 dc in each dc around (24 dc)
Round 3: 2dc in first dc of previous round, 1 dc in next st, *2dc in next st, 1 dc in next st*, *repeat to end of round (36 dc)
Round 4: 2dc in first dc of previous round, 1 dc in next 2 sts, *2dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 st*, *repeat to end of round (48 dc)
Round 4: 2dc in first dc of previous round, 1 dc in next 3 sts, *2dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 st*, *repeat to end of round (60 dc)
Round 5 – to finish: dc in each dc.

BEADING:
When the cap reaches about 2” from the desired length, slide first bead down. Insert hook into same st as dc just made, BEHIND working yarn, making sure bead is in FRONT of work, sl st bead into place. Dc in next two st and repeat to end of round. Complete one round with beads, and then one without. Or, put beads on every two st to the end of the hat. Or just one row of beads at the bottom of the hat. So many possibilities! Be absolutely sure that the beads are sitting on top of your work. No cancer patient is going to want beads scratching up their lovely heads.


this is what your work should look like from the back...
And, tah dah! My first video tutorial. This should help explain the beading process...

video